PART 133: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.
We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!
We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).
Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.
This week, let's explore how we decided which months to live in Italy would be best for us.
Step 2: Summers and winters in Puglia
We began our adventure of living in Italy in Puglia. In previous blogs, I shared how this journey came about. Since we wanted to spend two to three months in Italy twice a year, the logical solution was to stay in Puglia during the summer to escape the intense heat of Palm Springs, and then return for the winter.
We spent several summers in Puglia and were grateful for the experience. The beautiful beaches, local friendships, and favorite hangouts contributed to a rich life. However, during our second summer there, we struggled with the hot and humid weather, which even the beaches couldn't compensate for (We are used to the heat in Palm Springs, but it is dry heat). Our lovely rental had two room-based air conditioners, and on particularly hot muggy days, we found ourselves taking refuge in the kitchen under the air conditioning unit, avoiding the outdoors.
After a few days, my partner remarked, "We didn't come to Italy to sit inside under an air conditioner!" And it was true. While we are accustomed to the hot summer weather in Palm Springs, we have learned how to manage it effectively. In California we enjoy access to a pool and jacuzzi in our community, and have central air conditioning, and access to a cool large modern community library where we can work. We also have the nearby mountains and often escape to Idyllwild, a mountain village where temperatures are considerably cooler than on the desert floor.
Winter was a different experience in southern Italy. During the winter months in Puglia, many of the vibrant summer towns were deserted. While this lack of crowds was pleasing in some ways, it also made the towns feel lifeless. The damp winter weather, with its biting cold that seemed to penetrate to the bone, wasn't enjoyable for us.
"I think we should rethink our strategy of coming during the summer and winter," my partner suggested.
But everything changed when we moved to Tuscany.
Step 3: Our first months: During the winter.
We completed the purchase of our house in Tuscany in February and immediately moved in to start the renovation. How did the winter weather in Tuscany affect our stay? Simply put, by the end of our two-month winter stay, we both decided that we would prefer to avoid winter and instead visit Tuscany in the Spring and Fall.
What happened?
To provide some context, we are from Southern California, where cold weather typically means just a few rainy days with temperatures in the low 60s. As a result, we felt the winter weather in Tuscany more acutely than others might have.
This past winter in Tuscany, we experienced chilly and rainy weather day after day. This is not a complaint; we understood we would face rainy weather when we planned our trip. We focused on navigating this challenging season to have a positive experience during our 2 ½ months in Italy.
Our experience in Tuscany during the winter unfolded in three stages:
1. Excitement
Initially, we were excited about purchasing our house in Italy, beginning renovations, and starting our new life in Tuscany. The chilly, rainy weather did not impact us much during that first month because we were too busy gathering renovation materials, visiting showrooms, and hunting down furniture. While it wasn't fun carrying items from our car to the front door in the rain, establishing our life in Italy energized us.
2. Weariness
The second stage was weariness. This wasn't solely due to the weather; it was also because of the cold temperatures inside the house. We only had heating in the bedroom during renovations and no hot water. At one point, we were even without a kitchen.
As the rainy days continued outside and the cold lingered inside, it began to wear on us. There was a moment when I said, "I just want to be back in California." I realized I was nearing my emotional breaking point, so my partner suggested I take a few days to visit Rome and escape the house project. It was a great suggestion; I managed to forget about the renovations for three days and returned feeling rejuvenated.
Since we wanted to make the most of our time in Italy, we began to carve out time for exploration besides the renovation work. We visited Pienza, Montechiello, and Rocca d'Orcia and drove along the winding roads of Monte Amiata. The positive aspect of our outings was that there were few, if any, tourists wherever we went. The challenging part, however, was the rain; trudging through the streets of Pienza with umbrellas was quite different from exploring its beautiful architecture under a clear sky.
After several weeks of almost nonstop rain, we decided to stop going on outings and focus solely on the house.
3. Resolution
Experience can be the best teacher; I know this from my 25 years as a high school teacher, where I aimed to make history come alive for my students.
Toward the end of our time in Tuscany, we reflected on our experiences, spoke with locals, and considered our options. Based on our winter experience, we resolved to return in the Spring and Fall moving forward.
We make many sacrifices and spend considerable money to realize our dream of establishing a life in Italy, so visiting during better weather and when the tourist season is winding down makes sense.
Thus, our future visits to Italy would consist of 2-3 months in the Spring and 2-3 months in the Fall.
Step 3: Our second 3 months: The Fall
We repeatedly heard the phrase, "Come to Tuscany in the Fall. The weather is beautiful, and the tourists are gone!"
We found this statement to be partially true.
September can a popular month in parts of Italy, which I was aware of when we booked our flights. I flew to Rome a few weeks before my partner to prepare for my book presentation (as mentioned in a previous blog) and to take care of other business. Aside from a few isolated thunderstorms, I found the September weather in Rome to be warm but not hot, and in the evenings, it was a bit chilly but not cold. However, the city was crowded.
My partner arrived in mid-September, and we drove to our place in Tuscany. "Wow," what a beautiful day!" I exclaimed as we pulled into the historical center of our town. It was true: the sky was clear, the temperature was in the 70s, and the humidity was low. There were no tourists in our area at all.
This ideal weather lasted about 10 days before it started raining almost daily. When we asked the local residents about the weather, we frequently heard comments like: "This weather is not normal!" and," "Last year, I was swimming at the end of October." Another local said, "Tuscany always has beautiful weather in the Fall, but that's not the case anymore. Everything has changed."
We experienced weeks of cloudy skies, cool weather, and almost daily rain.
While climate change may seem like a distant scientific concept to some, it is being felt acutely in other parts of the world, including Europe. We faced unusually scorching summers in Puglia, and in Tuscany, the rainy season has shifted to early Fall.
I recently wrote a blog about turning rainy days into positive opportunities. By focusing on activities we enjoy, slowing down our pace, and engaging in pursuits we might usually overlook during sunny weather, we've discovered that rainy days in the Fall, with their mild temperatures, no longer feel like setbacks as they once did in winter.
Living in Italy in the Fall is a wonderful decision and a bit of rain won't stop us from enjoying it!
Step 4: The Spring: Expectations
Today, we encountered two contradictory statements about the weather in our area during the Spring. This morning, a lady from our gym in Tuscany informed us that it tends to be rainy until mid-June. In contrast, our local friend claimed that the Spring weather in Tuscany is terrific.
Perhaps the truth lies somewhere in between?
My expectations for Spring in Tuscany include lush green hills, wildflowers, fewer tourists, and gentle sunlight.
Will my expectations be met?
I look forward to sharing my experiences in this Spring's future blog post.
More next time.
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