PART 107: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.
We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!
We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).
Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.
This week, let's explore Ostia Antica.
This is my adventure from a few weeks ago: I arrived shortly after the complex opened, around 8:45 in the morning. The first thing I noticed was that, besides the archaeologists working, maybe four of us were visiting that day. Ostia is off the tourist radar, offering a different type of experience compared to what one would have at Pompeii.
Step 2: History.
Ostia's location, close to the Tiber River for trade and near the valuable salt pans, made it an ideal city site. Legend suggests Ostia dates back to the 7th century BC, but archaeologists have found only remains from the 4th century BC.
The city flourished between the late 1st and early 3rd centuries AD due to the construction and expansion of the maritime port, especially under Emperor Trajan. Ostia became Rome's main port, evidenced by the numerous warehouses and shops that still exist today.
A typical Roman town had a forum, and the Ostia forum was built in the first century AD under Tiberius. In the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, Ostia reached a population of around 100,000.
With such a large population, various amenities were necessary. The city boasted a large theater, public baths, numerous taverns, inns, and even a firefighting service. In terms of religion, the cult of Mithras thrived, as indicated by the 18 Mithraea found in the city. Ostia is also home to the earliest synagogue discovered in Europe and the remains of a church commemorating the death of St. Monica, the mother of St. Augustine, who died in Ostia.
Ostia continued to thrive until the 5th century, as evidenced by repairs to the baths, new constructions, and street repaving.
However, Ostia's decline began after the Fall of the Roman Empire in 476 AD. As Rome's population shrank to 200,000 or less by 500 AD, Ostia also experienced a gradual decline. The city suffered a final blow during the naval battle of Ostia in 849 between Christians and Saracens, and the remaining inhabitants eventually abandoned the town.
Step 3: Sights.
The theater.
The amphitheater in Ostia is one of the most impressive buildings in the city. It can seat 4,000 spectators and is located near the forum, making it a central part of the city. The theater was originally built during Augustus's reign and later expanded. It is one of the oldest brick theaters in the world.
During my recent visit, the amphitheater was set up for production, with extra seating, a temporary stage, and theater lights. Although this setup detracted from the historical ambiance, I could still envision ancient plays being performed for the rapt audience of Ostians. I sat there, imagining the crowds' delight and the masked actors' drama. Behind the stage, three marble theatrical masks reflected the dramatic style of that time.
The Thermopolium.
The word "Thermopolium" refers to what we would call fast food today. In Ostia, there is a street window where customers could order food to go. The counter has recesses for food storage and amphorae of cheap wine. This Thermopolium in Ostia, dating back to the 3rd century, is one of the nicer ones I've seen. It has indoor seating and a beautifully painted menu displayed behind the counter. Most Thermopoliae in Ostia offered food options such as eggs, olives, turnips, lentils, meat, or fish, all seasoned with garum.
Stepping into this café quickly transported me back to the ancient world; I could almost hear the lively conversations and the clatter of serving dishes. Take a few minutes to stop and listen!
Baths of Neptune.
I visited Ostia and saw the remains of some of the 26 different baths, but my favorite was Neptune's Baths. The complex is huge at 4,400 square meters and was built during Hadrian's reign in 139 AD. As I climbed the stairs beside the entrance, I was amazed to find four massive black and white mosaics on the top level. They depicted Neptune riding a chariot surrounded by marine animals, nymphs, and sea divinities. I also saw a mosaic of athletes in the palestra, including boxers with spiked gloves and wrestlers. Neptune's Baths also have an open-air gym surrounded by marble columns and a life-sized statue of Sabina, the wife of Hadrian, dressed as the goddess Ceres, which was found in the central area.
The mosaics in the baths pulsate with life, and they are well worth the climb and further exploration.
Mithraeum of Felicissimus.
Sixteen Mithraea have been discovered in Ostia so far, indicating that the cult of Mithras, popular among Roman soldiers, was also embraced by the citizens there. However, due to the secretive nature of the Mithras cult, the Mithraeum are not conspicuous and require deliberate searching to be found.
I found and visited the Mithraeum of Felicissimus and was glad to see it deserted.
What is truly fascinating about this Mithraeum is the depiction of the stages through which initiates underwent a spiritual transformation within this belief system. While I won't delve into each specific stage here (I explore each step in my book "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome"), visiting this Mithraeum allowed me to make my own observations.
The benches on each side evoked a sense of community, while the area where the altar once stood (now gone) was the focal point: a place for worship and emulation of Mithras' virtues. There was a connection to purification through blood; occasionally, an animal was sacrificed, and initiates would be marked with or dip their toe into the blood. The path of virtue was displayed on the floor for them to follow.
It is a remarkable site and, in my opinion, signifies the human spirit's perpetual quest for meaning beyond the routines of everyday life.
Step 4: Cool things.
The best way to experience Ostia is to visit early in the day. When you have the archeological park to yourself, you can truly feel the connection with the ancient stones, frescoes, and monuments.
There are two approaches to exploring Ostia: wandering aimlessly or pursuing a specific goal. I have tried both methods, and wandering can lead to pleasant surprises and unexpected discoveries. However, you might miss out on some of the site's hidden treasures.
Another effective way to explore Ostia is by setting a specific goal. For instance, I visited to find as many Mithraea as possible. To prepare for this, I researched beforehand and used a guidebook to locate them. Although finding them without a guide is possible, having one can significantly shorten the search time.
Insights: Visiting Ostia Antica was one of the summer's most rewarding experiences. It allowed me to connect with the ancient world, escape the crowds of tourists, and gain a deeper appreciation for the incredible civilization that existed in Italy.
More next time.
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