PART 105: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.
We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!
We live in Tuscany in the Fall and, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).
Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.
This week, let's explore hiking in the Val d'Orcia.
Step 2: History
The Val d'Orcia is a beautiful countryside in southern Tuscany, bordered by Umbria on one side and the slopes of Mount Amiata on the other. It extends along the agricultural lands outside of Siena and is named after the Orcia River that runs through the area.
One of the most photographed spots is the famous Val d'Orcia cypress trees near San Quirico d'Orcia.
The area's gentle, cultivated hills are occasionally broken by gullies and by picturesque towns and villages such as Pienza (rebuilt as an "ideal town" in the 15th century under the patronage of Pope Pius II), Radicofani (home to the notorious brigand Ghino di Tacco) and Montalcino (the Brunello di Montalcino is counted among the most prestigious of Italian wines).
The landscapes of the Val d'Orcia have been depicted in works of art, from Renaissance paintings to postcards today, and have been used in many films, including Gladiator.
My partner and I have explored Tuscany by car several times, and we always go off the beaten path to see what we can discover.
Recently, we have begun to hike the area, and the experience is more rewarding than driving.
Step 3: Some great hikes
There are many hiking opportunities in the Val d'Orcia area. Here are a few that we like.
a) Rocca d'Orcia to Bagno Vignoni
Start your hike at the top of the village of Rocca d'Orcia and make your way down to Bagno Vignoni. You can park at the parking lot just outside of town and then walk up into the medieval village.
Along this path, you'll often find art displays. Continue to the fortress tower at the top of the hill to enjoy a beautiful view of the neighboring village of Castiglione d'Orcia.
After exploring the village of Rocca d'Orcia, follow the path downhill toward Bagno Vignoni. The trail is well-marked, winds through vineyards, farmyards, and fields with stunning views. The walk is about 4 km downhill to the Orcia River.
Upon crossing the river, the path leads to the bottom of the thermal springs that flow down from Bagno Vignoni. You'll pass a series of pools that get warmer the closer you get to their source, often with people swimming or soaking in them.
Take some time to enjoy Bagno Vignoni, where you can visit cute shops, interesting restaurants, and the amazing Albergo Le Terme spa, offering thermal waters for a fee.
The hike ends here. You can hike back up the hill to the parking lot or arrange for a taxi.
b) Hiking Pienza
Another great hike is in the hills surrounding Pienza. This easy hike begins at an organic sheep farm called Podere il Casale, which specializes in pecorino cheese. You can enjoy a great lunch at the restaurant, with its pecorino cheeses and other farm produce, before setting off for a trek to Pienza.
The hike leads through the farm and down the fertile landscape surrounding the medieval village of Pienza. Part of the path follows the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage between France and Rome. Poppies and wildflowers surround the path in the spring as farmers tend their fields and work the vines.
This hike takes you through everything you would associate with Tuscany - winding lanes, tall cypress trees, beautiful villages, and many grape vines. The path continues through a valley pass with a few steep hills to trek up, but the stunning views of Pienza make it well worth it. Once the path leads into Pienza, the reward is one of the most beautiful hill towns in Tuscany.
Beautiful shops, several restaurants and bars, and a lovely church await visitors. However, the greatest reward is the breathtaking views over the Val d'Orcia from Pienza.
c) Circular walk between Pienza and the Cappella di Vitaleta, along the famous Gladiator road
This is an easy path to follow, and reaching the iconic Cappella di Vitaleta is worth it. It feels like standing inside of a postcard.
During the first part of the hike, you pass the winding scenic road where Russell Crowe returned home in "Gladiator."
Visiting Pienza and then Pieve di Corsignano (right outside the town) is a must.
The hike itself: Just inside Porta al Prato, the main street leads to Pienza's central square, Piazza Pio II. Take time to explore this 15th-century "perfect" Renaissance town, including the Piccolomini Palace, the Borgia Palace, and the cathedral with its pure Renaissance exterior and late Gothic-style interior.
Take the street left of the Duomo, walk through the Porta al Santo, then turn right onto Via di Circonvallazione. An 11-minute walk leads to the Pieve di Corsignano.
At this point, the asphalt path becomes gravel, and on the left, signs point to the Agriturismo Terrapille (the sign is sometimes hidden by a huge hybrid fig tree).
Soon, the path becomes the famous Gladiator road where Ridley Scott filmed some iconic scenes from "Gladiator."
After 6 km, the path continues down the valley to the famous chapel, Capella di Vitaleta, and the adjacent farmhouse.
On the Via Santa Caterina, make a final stop at the UNESCO World Heritage sign and gaze at the beautiful panorama overlooking the trail and Monte Amiata.
Step 5: More hikes: Resources
Two. Hikes from S Quirico:
Insights:
Driving and hiking offer two distinct experiences. As we engage in both activities, we uncover hidden gems in Val d'Orcia that we never knew existed. Hiking reveals the little details: a rare viewpoint, a small flower, or a farmer tending to his field.
More next time.
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Thank you for sharing such helpful details! Both Pienza and Montalcino are places I would like to visit.